Method of last shelling



May 13, 194.1- J. J. BRQPHY 2,241,502

METHOD OF LAST SHELLING Filed Feb. 12, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Wvg/V717@7,2 .22.42; i I 452%@ Patented May 13, 1941 Y UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE SHELIQING .mm J. nmrolynsalem, Mass., miglior to United ShoeMachinery Corporation,

Borough of 'I'his invention relates to methods of develop'- ing theperipheral shape of a doubly curved surface in a plane and isexemplified herein with reference to a procedure known as last shellingby the use of which the required shape of a pattern for a shoe partadapted to fit a portion of a last surface is determined.

Last shelling is ordinarily carried out by the use of a piece of paperwhich is secured to the midportion of one side of the last by a line oftacks extending lengthwise thereof, the paper being of such shape and ofsufficient area tomore than cover the entire side of the last betweenthe edge of the bottom and the center line extending between the extremetoe and heel ends of the last along the middle of the instep of thecone. The paper is slit inwardly from its edges forming a series oftongues which enable the paper to be bent without wrinkling about theabruptly curved portions of the last, the tongues overlapping eachother'in some places and diverging from each other in others. Aftermarks are made on the tongues where they cross the center lines of theinstep ridge and heel and the edge of the last bottom, vthe paper whichis now called a "she1l is removed from the last and flattened intocontact with a piece of pattern material which then is cut along a lineconnecting the marks on the tongues in a smooth curve,

thereby providing, a "draft" of one side of the last. This procedure visrepeated on the other side of the last, the two drafts representing in aplane the entire curved surface of the last.

If the liesign of the upper is simple. as in the case of a pump, or ifit is symmetrical, a pattern representing the bottom and top lines ofthe upper is traced from the edges of the inside and outside drafts whenso placed that their central edges which correspond to the center lineof the last are brought together as well as possible. As these centraledges are sinuous and are curved oppositely to eachother, when thedrafts are brought together, they overlap each other at certain placesand are spaced from each otherat other places, these differences beingcompensated for by cutting the pattern wider than the combined draftsopposite to their overlapping areas and narrower than the combineddrafts oppo- 'site to points where they do not overlap. The

shapes of patterns for individual parts of the upper.. such as the vampand the quarter, are then laid Vout on the pattern referred to above,and it is evident that any error in the cutting of the latter paternwill'give rise to other errors in the shape of a pattern for anindividual limitations, is useful in connection with certainv shoe part.

Uniformv drafts cannot be obtained from the same last by differentoperators or even by one operator at different times regardless of howskillful he may be because it is a matter of judgment as to how thepaper which is to form the shell isl applied to and bent around thelast. Then, too, because of the difference between the relation of thetongues when in contact with the last and .when in a flattenedcondition, as well as because of the difference between the requiredshape of a shoe part in a finished shoe and its shape as developed in aplane, a great deal oi' skill is required in layingV out a pattern in aplane so that it will produce a shoe part of the desired appearance whenit is embodied in a finished shoe.

For these reasons, the designingof a pattern is an uncertain procedure,the first steps of which produce, at best, only a general approximationof the required pattern.

Consequently, the rst pattern for a shoe upper is regarded as merely thestarting point of a cut-and-try process which involves making at leasttwo and often more sample shoes, changes to correct errors in the designof one shoe being made in the pattern for the succeeding shoe until asatisfactory pattern is obtained.

Although the above procedure, in spite of its classes of work, itsvalueis questionable in designing patterns for upper parts of shoes ofodd shape, as in the case of orthopedic shoes or shoes which are extremein style; and this procedure is entirely inapplicable to the design ofpatterns for uppers which are characterized by the asymmetricalarrangement of their lines or.parts.

In view of the foregoing, the general object of the invention is toprovide an improved method of making patterns which is applicable to anytype or style of work and by the use of which the difllculties andinaccuracies of the prior meth# 0d referred to above are eliminated;Although the invention will be described herein in connection withmaking patterns for shoe upper parts, itis to be understood that it mayhave application in any instance where it is desired to develop in aplane the peripheral contour of a doubly curved surface.

The invention contemplates the use of a flexible shell which has andtends to retain the peripheral and doubly curved form of a shoe part forwhich a pattern is to be made. Onemethod of employing a shell of thistype, in accordano'` tern material are pressed together.

with the invention, is characterized by the steps of deforming the shellunder pressure along a line extending between the edges of the shellintoconformity`to the surface of a piece of pattern material,progressively moving the line oi transferring the positions of the edgesof the shell at the line of pressure to the pattern material.

By thus progressively acting upon the shell only along a line at anytime, the shell is subjected to a minimum of distortion, and the edgesof the portion of the shell about to be operated upon are free to move'into positionsv corresponding to the length of the shell along the lineof pressure without any change in their orientation which would cause aninaccuracy in the peripheral shape of the shell as transferred to thepattern material.

Preferably, and as herein illustrated, the abovementioned progressivedeformation of the shell is effected by subjecting it to the action of aroll,

pressure being exerted bythe roll through the in number to represent anaccurate outline of thel peripheral shape of the shell on the patternmaterial or so as to provide a continuous mark. That is, the shell maybe provided with embossed indicia, such as punch marks, indicating theoutline of a shoe part for which a pattern is to be made, the indicia aswell as the edges of the shell itself being adapted to make a mark onimpressionable pattern material when the shell and pat- Similarly, theinvention contemplates providing a transfer medium either on the edgesof` the shell or other lines, or in the form of a sheet disposed betweenthe shell and pattern material, the pressure exerted toward the patternmaterial by the shell being utilized to cause the transfer medium to beVdeposited upon the pattern material along a line corresponding to theedge of the shell or other indicia.

The invention .will now be more fully disclosed in the followingdetailed description when read in connection with the accompanyingdrawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. l is a perspective view of a last to whichl a piece of paper hasbeen applied in accordance with the prior method of last shellingreferred to above;

Fig. 2 is a view in perspective of `a last having thereon a shell of thetype employed in the practice of the present method, the shape of shoeof the type illustrated in Fig. 2 and transferring its outline to apieceof pattern material in accordance with the method provided by theinvention: Y

Fig. 4 illustrates a combined inner and outer draft of the last as madefrom shells obtained by the conventional last shelling method havingupper parts of a shoe of the style illustrated in 5 Fig. 2 laid outthereon in accordance with the deformation of the shll along the shell,and

general appearance of the shoe design of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 yillustrates the conventional method of using the draft of Fig. 4and the dimculty of laying out a pattern of asymmetrical design by thismethod;

Fig. 6 represents superimposed patterns of a part of the vamp of theshoe of Fig. 2, one pattern having been made as indicated in Fig. 5, and

y the other by the practice of the present invention; and Fig. 7illustrates a pattern of another part of the vamp of the shoe of Fig. 2made by the practice of the present invention.

The above-described prior method of last shelling, by the use ofa papershell, is illustrated in Fig. l in which a paper shell it, the edges ofwhich are slit to form tongues i2, as shown as secured to the outer sideof a form or last i4, by tacks i6. This figure also indicates how thetongues i2, upon being wrapped about the last,

separate from and overlap each other along the center line of the lastand the edge of its bottom.

It will now be apparent that the length of the edges of a draft in aplane made from the shell I0 will not be equal to the length of thecorresponding lines on the last surface unless the total overlap of thetongues i2 is equal to the total separation between them. It is unlikelythat this relation of equality between the separation and overlapping ofthe tongueswill ever occur, and it is unpredictable whether the centerline of the draft will be longer or shorter than the center line of thelas't and to what extent. Moreover, because of the change in the angularrelation between the tongues caused by bending them into a plane, themarks on the tongues representing the'center line or bottom edge of thelast will not always lie in a regular and smooth curve. The

contour of the draft is therefore made so as to tion when a draft ismade from it. this distortion' being substantially the reverse of thatto which upper material is subjected when the shoe is lasted. Theinvention thus contemplates the use of `a shell which has, and tends toretain, the peripheral and doubly curved form of a shoe part of which apattern is to be made, the essential requirements of this shell as toits material being thatit is exible enough to be easily bent withoutbreaking, rigid enough to resist material change in its dimension alongthe line of bending, and resilient enough to return to substantially-itsoriginal doubly curved form after oeing bent. n

One Vsatisfactory method of producing such a shell is to immerse a lastin and then remove it from a liquidof such viscosity that it ows oil thelast except for a thin film, which upon drying has the propertiesreferred to above. One

liquid which is suitable for use in practicing the present invention hasthe following composition:

Per cent by'weight Ethyl cellulose (high viscosity) 8.7 Uiormite F-225(urea formaldehyde resin made by Resinous Products & Chemical Co.,Philadelphia, Pa.) 2.2 Beckosol 1324 (non-drying type of alkydresin-resin 80%, toluol 20%-made by Reichold Chemical Co., Detroit,Michl-- 2.2 Ethylene dichloride 52.1 Carbon tetrachloride 34.8

As an example of this method of providing a shell, Fig. 2 illustrates aform or last I8 to which a shell 2D has been applied in the mannerdescribed above, excess shell material having been trimmed away from thelast along the edges of its bottom and the top of its cone portion. Iheshell is then cut along a center line A22 and a similar centerline atthe heel end of the last if it isdesired to make drafts of the sides ofthe last. However, in the case of a shoe the design of which isasymmetrical as indicated in Fig. 2. the shell is not cut along thecenter lines of the last, but, instead, is cut along lines 24 whichcorrespond to the outlines of the various parts of the upper. The shellrepresenting the surface of one side of the last or an entire shoe partas the case may be is then peeled off the last and its peripheral shape,as developed in'a plane, is later Vtransferred to a piece of patternmaterial as will presently be described.

The lines along which the shell is cut may be drawn on the surface ofthe shell while it is on the last or if, as contemplated by theinvention, a transparent shell material is used, the lines may be drawndirectly upon the last before it is coated.

The shell, -although removed from the last, tends to retain the shape ithad while upon the last and is next progressively deformed along a lineinto conformity to the surface of a fiatpiece of pattern material, thepositions of the edges of the flattened portion of the shell `beingtransierred to the pattern material whereby the shape of the normallydoubly curved shell is progressively developed into a plane. As hereinillustrated, this step of the method is carried out as indicated in Fig.3, for example, by presenting the shell 26 of a vamp section and a pieceof pat-V tern material 28 vin superimposed relation between rolls 30,32, the pressure of which causes Ithe shell to be flattened along aline, this line of pressure being moved substantially parallel to itselfalong the shell as the shell and pattern ma terlal pass between therolls.

The pressure by which the shell is flattened ls utilized to transfer theperipheral shape of the shell to the pattern material. Preferably, atransfer medium is used for this purpose, this medium being eitherapplied to the edges of the shell or in the form of a sheet of carbonpaper '34 disposed between the shell and the pattern tion across it thatthe shell is subjected to a minimum of distortion. Thus, the shell, ifit represents one side of a last, is presented to the rolls so that theline of pressure extends substantially heightwise of the shell. -Thissame result is achieved in connection with a. shell of any form bypresenting the shell to the rolls in such a way that the line ofpressure on the shell extends between its proximal edges. As the line ofpressure on the shell is moved under the action of the rolls, theportion of the shell adjacent to` the bite of the rolls is progressivelyflattened, the

portion of the shell about to be operated upon being shaped about a lastany more than is.

necessary to make it conform to the double cur- Y vature of the last.That is, .any necessity for straining the upper to bring its lines intotheir proper positions on the last beyond the amount necessary to makeit fit the double curvature of the last is eliminated.

Sutllcient pressure is exerted between the shell '26 and patternmaterial 28 at the bite of the rolls 30, 32 to prevent any change in theorientation of the shell` with respect to the pattern material along theline of pressure. 'However, to insure against any slippage between theshell and pattern material they may be presented to 'the rolls betweenthe leaves of a folder 36, the inner sides of which are covered with anabrasive material. If a soft type of pattern .materiaL such as blottingpaper or other form of impressionable pattern material is used, thetransfer me- `dium may be dispensed with, as the pressure which isnecessary to iiatten the shell issuirlcient to cause the outline oi' theshell to be impressed into the pattern material.

As will be noted from Fig. 3, the rolls of the illustrative machine forflattening the shell are of different diameters, the upper roll 30 beingas small as possible in diameter consistent with the required strength,for example about V2", so that the area of the shell which is subject todistortion at each side of the line of pressure is as small as possible.The upper roll 30 is made of metal and has a knurled surface so as toprovide an effective grip on the folder or on the shell and patternmaterial if no folder is used. The lower roll 32 is made of rubber ofsuch consistency as to provide a. iirm but somewhat yielding support forthe folder or pattern material, The rolls are connected by gears 38, l0,the diameters of which have the same ratio as that between4 thediameters of the rolls whereby the rolls are driven at the sameperipheral speed The pressure to which the shell and pattern materialare subjected is adjusted by a screw 42 which bearsA similar coating onthe last having the thickness shall not be soluble in the solvent forthe other.

Thus, the incompatibility of the two coatings will insure against anydiiiiculty in the removal of the outer coating from the inner coating.

"which the latter are made may be made over a tageous relation angularlyand laterally at the same time.

The conventional method of pattern making is subject to the abovelimitations regardless of the design of the shoe; but these limitationsare so serious in connection with a shoe the design of which isasymmetrical that the use of the con- One liquid adapted for use inmaking such an inner coating, over which an outer coating made from theliquid disclosed above may be formed, has the following composition:

Per cent by weight Cellulose acetate No. 656 (made by Tennessee EastmanCorpi-, 15.7

Santolite M H, P. (condensation product of formaldehyde with aromaticsulfonamides made by Monsanto Chemical Co.) 7.9 Ethylene dichloride 64.7Methanol 11.7

A-tervthe outer shell has been taken off the last the inner shell, whichrepresents the lining,

operator regardless of whether or not the shoe design is of a type whichlends itself readily to the prior method of last shelling. Moreover, theuse of the present method facilitates making a draft of a lastwhetherthe last is of usual shape, or is odd in shape as in the case ofan orthopedic last.

A particularly important advantage of the present method is realized inconnection with the making ofpatterns of the upper parts for a shoe. thedesign of which is asymmetrical, the design indicated in Fig. 2 beingone of this type.

In making a composite draft as a basis for laying out patterns inaccordance with the prior method referred to above, the inside andoutside last shells are superimposed upon each other (Fig. 4) so thattheir sinuous con-tours, which correspond to the center line of the lastat the forepart and which are usually quite similar, are averaged aswellv as possible. As there often is a material diierence in the widthsof the inside and outside shells, their bottom lines are drawnseparately on the draft. It is evident already that an error will beintroduced in the draf-t as Vto its Width because the above-mentionedsinuvous contours of the shells cannot be usually placed exactlytogether. Moreover, because different areas of the shoe part which `lieatopupper as laid out ,on the draft, since the separate shells cannot becombined in the mostgadvanventional method in such a 'case becomesimpractica-ble.

A specific example of this problem will new be described with referenceto Figs. 4 and 5 employing a vamp section 46, which corresponds to theshell 26, as the shoe part of which a pattern is to be made. It is ftobe understood that the usual lasting allowance will be ldisregarded toavoid confusing the drawings. Assuming that the outlines of the shoeparts have been drawn on the draft (Fig. 4) as accurately as possible,the inner outlines (solidlines, Fig. 4) of the vamp section 46 are firsttransferred to apiece of pattern materlal (Fig. 5) from the draft ofFig. 4. The draft is then turned over about the line A-A whichcorresponds to the center line of the forepart of the last and the outeroutlines (dotted lines) of the vamp section 46 are drawn. It will now benoted that while the outline of the cut-out portion of the vamp section46 is smooth and regular, its rear outline is not and that parts of theinside and outside drafts overlap each other (crosshatched area) alongthe line A-A. This obviously results in a serious lack in the width ofthe pattern as well as a discontinuity in its rear ou'tline.

In an attempt to avoid this difliculty the outlines of the outsidedraf-t representing the rear portion of the vamp section 46 (dottedlines, Fig. 4) are transferred to the pattern material (dotand-dashlines, Fig. 5) with the line B-B which corresponds to the center of theridge of the cone of .the last superimposed upon the line A-A on thepattern material. The draft is now turned over, again superimposing theline B-B of the drait on the line A-A of the pattern material, and theoutlines (solid lines) of the inner draft are transferred to the patternmaterial (dotand-dash lines, Fig. 5). The draft is then turned overabout the line A-A' and the outer outline of the toe portion of the vampsection 46 is added to complete ,the pattern. As indicated in Fig. 5,the width and shape of the rearmost part of the vamp section 46, as wellas its angular relation with respect to the toe portion, are now moreaccurately determined than formerly; but, as will also be noted fromthis gure, the outline of the made by the conventional method(dot-anddash lines, Fig. 6) are clearly indicated by comparing itsshiape with 'that of la pattern (solid lines) of the same shoe part asmade by the practice of the present invention.

The difference fbetween the shapes of the cutout portion of the vampsection 46 and the vamp section 48 (Fig. 7) which later is united withthe vamp section 46 also clearly illustrates how little reliance can beplaced upon -the original design l as a basis for laying out the patternfor the vamp section 48 as to .the shape of its cut-out portion and therelation of different parts of its fbottom line.

In the practice of the present invention. on the other hand. a shellhaving been applied to the last, sections of the shell, correspondingexactly to the shoe parts of which patterns are to be made, are cut odthe last While in their norm'al doubly curved form. Upon developingtheir shape into a pl-ane in accordance with the invention, it is foundthat their shape is considerably different from what would be expectedand that an upper, cut by the use of patterns having the developed shapeof these shells, nts the last accurately. This difference is clearlyindicated by Figs. 6 and 7 which show the shape of the vamp sections 46and 48 as determined by the practice of the present invention.

Ii it were attempted to last a shoe upper embodying the vamp sectionshown in the dot-anddash lines of Fig. 6, the shoe upper would have tobe strained excessively at some places in order to bring the lines ofthe design into proper relation with each other, if indeed the upperwere near enough to the correct design to be capable of being lasted atall. On the other hand, when the. parts of the upper of the shapeillustrated by the solid lines in Figs. 6 and 7 are assembled, it isfound that the upper can be made-to fit the last with the slightestapplication'oi lasting tension and `that practically no pressure isrequired to be exerted on the upper in addition to that which isnecessary merely lto form or shape the upper about the last that is, thelines representing the design of the upper Iare brought into theirproper locations on the last without subjecting the upper to unevenlasting pressures which might unduly strain the upper stock andstitching and eventually cause distortion of the shoe in use.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in vmethods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible shell having and tending to retain the peripheral and doublycurved form-of a shoe part which consists in deforming said shell underpressure into conformity to the surface of a piece of pattern materialalong a line extending between the edges of the shell, progressivelymoving the line of deformation of the shell along the shell, andtransferring the positions of the edges of the shell at the line ofpressure to the pattern material..

2. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible shell hav- 3. That improvement in methods ofl making.

patterns of shoe parts from a flexible shell having and tending tolretain the peripheral and doubly curved form of a shoe part whichconsists in subjecting said shell and a piece of pat'- tern malterial topressure between rolls whereby the shell is progressively deformed alongthe line of pressure between the rolls into conformity to the surface ofthe pattern material, and transfen-ing the positions of the edges of theshell at the line of pressure to the pattern material.

4. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible nonstretchable shell having and tending to retain thedoublycurved and peripheral form of a shoe part which consists inprogressively deforming said shell into conformity to the surface of apiece of pattern material whereby the peripheral form of the shell isprogressively developed on the surface of the pattern material, andsirnultaneously marking the developed outline of the shell upon thepattern material.

5. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible shell having and tending to retain the peripheral and doublycurved form of a shoe part which consists in pressing said shell and apiece of impressionable pattern material into line contact with eachother, and progressively moving the line of pressure along the shellwhereby an impression of the peripheral contour of the shell is made inthe pattern material.

6. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts whichconsists in applying to a last a homogeneous flexible covering whichupon being removed from the last has and tends to retain the doublycurved form of the last, em-

bossing said shell along a lire representing the edges of ashoe part ofwhich a pattern is to be made, and subjecting said shell and a piece ofimpressionable pattern material to pressure between rolls whereby animpression of the embossed portion of the shell is made in the patternmaterial.

7. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible homogeneous shell having and tending to retain the doublycurved form of a shoe part which consists in embossing said shell onlines representing the edges of the shoe part of which a pattern is tobe made. pressing said shell and a piece of impressionabie patternmaterial into line contact with each other, and progressively moving thelineof pressure along the shell whereby an impression of the embossedportion of the shell is made in the pattern material.

8. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts whichconsists in applying a homogeneous iiexible covering to a last havingthereon indicia representing the outline of a shoe part. saidcoverlngbeing adapted to retain the doubly curved form of the last uponbeing removed from the last, cutting said covering in accordance withthe indicia to form a shell of the shoe part, pressing said shell and apiece of impressionable pattern material into line contact with eachother, and progressively moving the line of pressure along the shellwhereby an impression of the peripheral contour of the shell is made inthe pattern material.

9. That improvement in methods of making@` impression of the peripheralcontour of the shell is made on the pattern material.

10. That 'improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts whichconsists in coating a last having thereon indicia representing theoutline of a shoe part with a liquid adapted upon drying to form atransparent homogeneous shell which has and tends to retain the form ofthe last upon being removed therefrom, trimming the shell while on thelast in accordance with the indicia, removing the shell fromthe last,and progressively pressing said shell and a piece of impressionablepattern material together whereby an impression of the peripheralcontour of the developed shell is made in the patternvmaterial.

1l. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partswhich consists in coating the last with a liquid adapted on drying toform a shell which retains the form of the last upon being removedtherefrom, trimming the shell in accordance with :the shape of a shoepart for which a pattern is to be made, removing the shell from thelast, and progressively rolling said shell and a sheet of impressionablematerial in,

superimposed relation into line contact with each other whereby thedeveloped shape of the peripheral contour of the' shell is impressedupon the pattern material. f

12. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partswhich consists in coating a last having thereon indicia representing theoutline of a shoe part with a liquid adapted upon drying to form atransparent homo'- geneous shell which has and tends to retain the formof the last uponbeing removed therefrom. forming embossed indicia on theshell in accordance with the indicia on thelast, removing the shell fromthe last, and progressively pressing said shell and a piece ofimpressionable pattern material together whereby an impression of theindicia on the shell is 4made in the pattern material.

13. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts whichconsists in coating a last having indicia which indicate the'outline ofa shoe part with a liquid adapted upon drying to form a homogeneousflexible covering which upon being removed from the last has and tendsto retain the doubly curved form of the last, embossing indicia uponsaid covering in accordance with the indicia upon said last, andpressing said covering and a sheet of impressionable pattern material insuperimposed relation between rolls whereby an impression of theembossed portions of the shell is made in the pattern material- 14. Thatimprovement inmethods of shelling lasts which consists in applying to alast a covering equal in thickness to that of the. lining material of ashoe to be made on the last, applying a homogeneous flexible shell inclose fitting relation over said covering, said shell correspond` ing toa lasted upper on a last and being adapted upon removal therefrom -toretain the form of the upper as lasted, cutting said shell in accordancewith the shape of a shoe upper part, and removing the shell from thelast.

That ,improvement in methods of Vshelling lasts which consists inapplying to a last a covering equal in thickness to that of the liningmaterial of a shoe to be made on the last, coating said covering whileit is on the last with a liqlasts which consists in coating a last witha liquid adapted upon drying to form a covering equal in thickness tothat of the lining material of the shoe to be made on the last, coatingsaid covering while it is on the last with a sec- 'ond liquid in whichsaid covering is insoluble shoe upper is composed. y

17. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aflexible homogeneous shell having and tending to retain the pe ripheraland doubly curved form of a shoe part of which a pattern is to be madewhich consists in applying transfer medium to the edge of said uidhaving no affinity for said covering and the shoe upper part.

16. That improvement Iin methods of shelling shell, deforming said shellunder pressure into line contact with the surface of a piece of patternmaterial, and moving the line of deformation of the shell along itwhereby the developed outline of the edge of the shell is transferred tothe pattern material.

` 18. `That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts froma flexible homogeneous shell having and tending to retain the peripheraland doubly curved form of a shoe part of which a pattern is to be madewhich consists in applying transfer medium to the edge of said shell,and subjecting said Ishell and -a piece of pattern material to pressurebetween rolls whereby the shell is progressively deformed into linecontact with the vpattern material and the developed outline of theshell is vtransferred to the pattern material.

19. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partsfrom a flexible shell having and tending to retain the peripheral anddoubly curved form of a shoe part which consists in deforming said shellunder pressure into line contact with a sheet of transfer mediumdisposed between said shell and a piece of pattern material, andprogressively moving the line of deformation of said shell along itwhereby the developed peripheral contour of the shell is transferred tothe pattern material. l I 20. That improvement in methods of makinpatterns of shoe upper parts from a flexible shell having and tending toretain the peripheral and doubly curved form of a shoe part whichconsists in causing pressure to be exerted on .a piece of patternmaterial by said shell through a piece of transfer medium along a lineextending between the edges of the shell. and moving the line by animpression of the developed shape of the shell is made on the patternmaterial.

21. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partsfrom a flexible shell having and tending to retain the peripheral anddoubly curved form of a shoe part which consists in progressively`flattening said shell into straight line contact with a sheet oftransfer medium disposed between said shell and a piece of patternmaterial whereby an impression' of the developed shape of the shell ismade on the pattern material..

22. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partsfrom a flexible shell having and tending to retain the peripheral anddoubly curved form of a shoe part which consists in subjecting saidshell, a piece of pattern material, and a sheet of transfer mediumdisposed therebetween to pressure between rolls whereby said shell andpattern material are pressed into line contact with the transfer medium.and the developed peripheral contour of said shell is transferred to thepattern material.

23. 'I'hat improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe upper partsfrom a ilexible shell having and tending to retain the doubly curved.form of a last which consists in embossing said shell on linesrepresenting the edges of a shoe part of which a pattern is to be made,pressing said shell and a piece of pattern material into line contactwith the opposite sides of a `sheet of transfer mediumdisposedf'therebetween, and progressively moving the line of pressurealong the shell whereby an impression of thev embossed' portion of theshell is made in the pattern material.

. .24. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe partswhich consists in applying to a last on which the peripheral contour ofa shoe part of which a pattern is to be made is outlined, a transparenthomogeneous covering adapted upon being removed from the last to retainthe doubly curved form of the last, cutting said covering along theoutline on the last to form a shell, removing the shell from -the lastand pressing the shell and a piece of pattern material into line contactwith the opposite sides 'of a sheet of transfer medium disposedtherebetween, and progressively moving the line of pressure along theshell whereby an impression of its peripheral contour is made on thepattern material.

25. That improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts from aiiexible homogeneous shell having the peripheral and doubly curved formof a shoe part which consists in enclosing said shell and a sheet ofimpressionable pattern material in superimposed relation in a folder andcausing pressure to be exerted through said y folder against oppositesides of said shell and pattern material along a line extending betweenthe edges of said shell, and progressively moving the line of pressurealong said shell whereby the positions of the edges of the shell at theline of pressure are transferred to the pattern material.'

26.. 'I'hat improvement in methods of making patterns of shoe parts froma flexible homogeneous shell having the peripheral and doubly curvedform of a shoe part which consists in disposing a sheet of transfermedium. between said shell and a piece of pattern material, enclosingsaid shell, transfer medium and pattern material in a folder, applyingpressure to the opposite sidesl of the folder to cause the adjacentsides of said shell and pattern material to be pressed into line contactwith the pattern material, and progressively ,moving the line ofpressure along said shell ycontact with opposite sides of the patternmaterial and the developed outline of the shell is transferred to thepattern material.

JOHN' J. BROPHY.

